Glossary A to Z

The words, in plain language

Terms: 25

A row of dresses in jewel tones, from green and blue to purple and red, on hangers on a brass rail.

A

  • A-line

    An A-line is a silhouette that is fitted at the top and gradually widens toward the hem, forming a shape like a capital letter A. It is comfortable, easy to move in and flattering on many figures, which is why it appears in everything from wedding guest dresses to graduation outfits. It needs little tailoring beyond the hem, so it suits shoppers short on time. See also: Fit and flare, Sheath, Empire waist, and the guide Dress Fit Guide: Measurements, Silhouettes, Necklines, and Lengths.

  • Alterations

    Alterations are adjustments made by a tailor to improve the fit of a finished garment, such as hemming or taking in seams. A hem or strap change is usually quick, while reshaping a bodice, altering shoulders or working on a heavily beaded dress is complex and may need multiple fittings. Book your first fitting as soon as you have the dress, bring your shoes and undergarments, and ask for a completion date. Many shops treat altered dresses as final sale. See also: Hem, Seam allowance, Special order, and the guide Dress Alterations Guide: What to Expect and How to Prepare.

B

  • Bodice

    The bodice is the upper part of a dress, from the shoulders to the waist. It controls most of how a dress fits, so it is where tailors work on darts, straps, bust cups and the waist seam. A bodice that is too small is hard to fix, while a loose one is easier to take in, which is why many shoppers buy for their largest measurement. Structured bodices often contain lining or boning. See also: Boning, Lining, Alterations, and the guide Dress Alterations Guide: What to Expect and How to Prepare.

  • Black tie

    Black tie is a formal evening dress code that typically calls for a floor-length gown or an equally elegant outfit. Fabrics such as satin, silk, velvet, crepe and fine lace suit the tone, and any color is acceptable, though many guests choose deep shades or jewel tones. Accessories should be polished, and very short hems or casual fabrics are best avoided. Black tie optional gives guests more choice, including a very elegant cocktail dress. See also: Cocktail attire, Maxi, Train, and the guide Dress Codes Explained: From Casual to White Tie.

  • Boning

    Boning is thin, flexible strips sewn into a bodice to give it structure and keep it from slipping or folding. It is common in strapless and fitted formal dresses, where it helps the bodice hold its shape without constant adjusting. Check in the fitting room that the boning does not dig in when you sit or raise your arms. A tailor can adjust or add boning for a more secure fit. See also: Bodice, Sweetheart neckline, Alterations, and the guide Dress Fit Guide: Measurements, Silhouettes, Necklines, and Lengths.

  • Bustle

    A bustle is a set of hooks, loops or buttons that lifts a long skirt or train off the ground for easier movement. It lets you walk, dance and sit without stepping on the hem, and it is added by a tailor, often at a fitting. Bustles are most associated with bridal gowns, but any long skirt or train can be bustled. Ask about the style and the time needed, and practice moving in the dress. See also: Train, Alterations, Maxi, and the guide Dress Alterations Guide: What to Expect and How to Prepare.

C

  • Cocktail attire

    Cocktail attire is a dress code between casual and formal, usually calling for knee-length or midi dresses in polished fabrics. Crepe, satin, lace and structured knits work well, and details such as beading or a sculpted neckline add an evening feel. It is often used interchangeably with semi-formal, though cocktail is usually slightly more festive. A full floor-length gown is typically more than the occasion asks. See also: Black tie, Midi, Crepe, and the guide Dress Codes Explained: From Casual to White Tie.

  • Chiffon

    Chiffon is a lightweight, sheer, flowing fabric often layered in formal and occasion dresses. It floats and moves beautifully, which suits bridesmaid, guest and evening styles, but it is delicate, can snag and often needs a lining for coverage. Care labels commonly call for gentle or professional cleaning, and tailors need extra time to hem it neatly. Steaming is gentler than ironing on delicate fabrics. See also: Tulle, Lining, Drape, and the guide Dress Fabrics and Care: What to Know Before You Buy.

  • Crepe

    Crepe is a fabric with a slightly crinkled, textured surface and a fluid drape that resists showing creases. That makes it forgiving and easy to wear, and it appears in work dresses, cocktail dresses and evening gowns. It holds a clean line without stiffness, so it suits sheath and A-line shapes. Always check the label, since crepe can be made from different fibers with different care needs. See also: Drape, Sheath, Cocktail attire, and the guide Dress Fabrics and Care: What to Know Before You Buy.

D

  • Drape

    Drape describes how a fabric hangs and falls when worn: soft fabrics such as crepe, chiffon and rayon drape fluidly, while stiffer ones such as taffeta and organza hold shape. Drape changes the character of a dress with the same cut, so it is worth feeling the fabric in person or reading the description closely. Fluid drape is forgiving in motion, while stiff fabrics support voluminous silhouettes. See also: Crepe, Chiffon, Lining, and the guide Dress Fabrics and Care: What to Know Before You Buy.

  • Dry clean only

    Dry clean only is a care label instruction meaning the garment should be cleaned by a professional using solvents rather than water. It is common on structured gowns, beaded dresses, lined dresses and delicate silks. Washing a dry-clean-only dress at home is risky because water can damage structure, lining, embellishment or fabric finish. Read the label before buying so you know what upkeep to expect, and test any spot treatment on a hidden seam first. See also: Lining, Chiffon, and the guide Dress Fabrics and Care: What to Know Before You Buy.

E

  • Empire waist

    An empire waist is a waistline that sits high, just beneath the bust, with the skirt flowing loosely from that point. Many people find it comfortable because nothing is fitted at the natural waist, and it works for maxi lengths, graduation dresses and formal gowns. The seam placement is the key fit point: check that it lands beneath the bust rather than on it. See also: A-line, Maxi, Bodice, and the guide Dress Fit Guide: Measurements, Silhouettes, Necklines, and Lengths.

F

  • Fit and flare

    Fit and flare is a dress that is fitted through the bodice and waist and then flares out into a fuller skirt. The flare often starts at the waist or hip, so the style defines the waist while leaving room to move and dance. It is a popular choice for cocktail and wedding guest dresses. Try sitting, raising your arms and walking in the fitting room, because the fitted bodice has to stay put as the skirt moves. See also: A-line, Bodice, Cocktail attire, and the guide How to Shop for a Dress by Occasion.

H

  • Halter

    A halter is a style with straps that wrap around the back of the neck, leaving the shoulders and upper back bare. The neck tie or curve holds the dress up, which makes it a good option when you want a secure top without sleeves. Because it exposes the shoulders, consider a shawl or wrap for cool venues. Check how it feels when you raise your arms, and decide whether you will want to wear a bra, a built-in cup or neither. See also: Sweetheart neckline, Bodice, Lining, and the guide Dress Fit Guide: Measurements, Silhouettes, Necklines, and Lengths.

  • Hem

    The hem is the finished bottom edge of a dress, usually folded and stitched to prevent fraying. It is the most common alteration, because dress lengths depend on your height and on the shoes you plan to wear. A simple hem is a quick job for a tailor, while layered skirts, lace edges and bias-cut dresses take more care. Always bring the shoes you will wear to the fitting so the hem lands where you want it. See also: Alterations, Seam allowance, Maxi, and the guide Dress Alterations Guide: What to Expect and How to Prepare.

L

  • Lining

    A lining is an inner layer of fabric that improves comfort, hides seams and helps the outer fabric hang well. It stops sheer fabrics such as chiffon from showing through, reduces cling and can feel smoother against the skin. When trying on a dress, check whether the lining is scratchy or restricts movement. Linings also affect care, so if the label says dry clean only, take it seriously. See also: Chiffon, Dry clean only, Bodice, and the guide Dress Fabrics and Care: What to Know Before You Buy.

M

  • Midi

    A midi is a dress length that falls between the knee and the ankle. It is versatile across dress codes, appearing at work, at cocktail events and at daytime weddings, and it pairs well with flats or heels. Because shops describe lengths differently, check the model's height and the listed length before buying. Hemming a midi to suit your height is a common, simple alteration. See also: Tea length, Maxi, Cocktail attire, and the guide Dress Fit Guide: Measurements, Silhouettes, Necklines, and Lengths.

  • Maxi

    A maxi is a long dress that reaches the ankle or the floor. Lighter versions suit casual or warm-weather events, while heavier fabrics and more structure move toward formal wear. Maxis are length-sensitive: a hem that is right with high heels will drag in flats, so check the length with your shoes or ask a tailor to hem to a specific height. For outdoor events, consider whether the hem will touch grass or sand. See also: Midi, Hem, Black tie, and the guide Dress Fit Guide: Measurements, Silhouettes, Necklines, and Lengths.

S

  • Sheath

    A sheath is a close-fitting dress that follows the body's lines from the shoulders to the hem, usually without a defined waist seam. It creates a sleek vertical line and suits work, cocktail and evening settings when the fabric is polished. Because it sits close, fit matters more than with looser shapes, and the skirt needs enough room to walk and sit comfortably. A tailor can refine the waist and hem. See also: A-line, Midi, Alterations, and the guide Dress Fit Guide: Measurements, Silhouettes, Necklines, and Lengths.

  • Sweetheart neckline

    A sweetheart neckline is shaped like the top of a heart, with a curved dip at the center of the bust. It is common in formal and bridal dresses and is often paired with a structured bodice, internal boning or a strapless design. Because it frames the collarbone, check that it stays put when you bend forward, dance or hug people. Straps or a wrap can add coverage. See also: Boning, Halter, Bodice, and the guide Dress Fit Guide: Measurements, Silhouettes, Necklines, and Lengths.

  • Seam allowance

    Seam allowance is the extra fabric inside a seam, which determines how much a garment can be let out. A dress with generous seam allowance can often be enlarged slightly, while one with little cannot, which is why taking a dress in is much easier than letting it out. Ask a tailor to check the seams before you buy if you may need extra room. Beaded and lined dresses often limit what can be changed. See also: Alterations, Bodice, Hem, and the guide Dress Alterations Guide: What to Expect and How to Prepare.

  • Special order

    A special order is a dress ordered from a maker for a customer rather than bought from existing stock, often with stricter return terms. Because the dress is made or shipped for you, shops may treat deposits and orders as non-refundable and cannot restock it. Before paying, ask for the expected arrival window in writing, what happens if the dress arrives late or flawed, and what is non-refundable. Build extra time for alterations. See also: Alterations, Hem, and the guide Dress Shopping Timeline: When to Start and What to Do First.

T

  • Tea length

    Tea length is a hemline that ends between the knee and ankle, usually on the lower calf, often paired with a fuller skirt. It is essentially a slightly longer, fuller midi and has a vintage feel. It suits daytime weddings, garden parties and some formal events when the fabric is refined. Because the hem sits at a visible point on the leg, try it with the shoes you plan to wear. See also: Midi, Fit and flare, Cocktail attire, and the guide Dress Codes Explained: From Casual to White Tie.

  • Tulle

    Tulle is a fine, lightweight netting used to add volume and texture to skirts and overlays. Layers of tulle create the full skirts of ball gowns and prom dresses, and a single layer can add a soft overlay. It is airy but can snag, so handle it carefully and store it without crushing the layers. Tailors treat beaded tulle as delicate work that may take longer. See also: Chiffon, Lining, Train, and the guide Dress Fabrics and Care: What to Know Before You Buy.

  • Train

    A train is an extension of fabric at the back of a skirt that trails behind the wearer. Trains add drama to formal and bridal gowns and range from short sweeps to long cathedral styles. They need space and attention: plan how you will move, sit and get in and out of cars, and ask about a bustle to lift the fabric. Store a gown with a train carefully to avoid creasing. See also: Bustle, Black tie, Tulle, and the guide Dress Alterations Guide: What to Expect and How to Prepare.